Do you remember romantic, several
times filmed story of the ship “Bounty”? It is different from other
south seas stories because it is authentic. In 1787 British monarch sent
"Bounty" to the recently discovered islands of Polynesia to bring the plants of
breadfruit tree. They intended to plant them in the British colonies in the West
Indies to feed easier thousands of old slaves working there. After exhausting,
10-month journey "Bounty" reached Tahiti, friendly received by Polynesians.
Preparations of plants for the long way took almost half a year. In the
meantime many British sailors found there female partners - Tahitian ladies are famous of
their beauty. |
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Departure from
hospitable Tahiti was not joyful, captain Bligh was known as despotic person. Nobody
knows what was the basic source of the mutiny: his cruelty or yearning for the lost
Tahitian paradise. They left captain Bligh with loyal sailors in the longboat on the open
sea. After few months they miraculously reached Indonesia. “Bounty” with
mutineers turned back to Tahiti. Here some people were left. The remained members of
the crew including Fletcher Christian - the head of the mutiny sailed onward to
other islands. |
| Christian knew
that sooner or later British navy will hunt for mutineers wanting to punish them, to make
an example... He decided to invite the group of Tahitians and to hide on the island which
will be difficult to find for the navy ships. They wander the ocean for few months until
they reach uninhabited Pitcairn. They found it by chance, because on the British navy maps
it was marked by mistake about 200 miles away. -They will not find us here! - they
assent . After removing ashore everything of value the mutineers burned the
"Bounty" to avoid detection... No wonder - at that time mutiny on the ship
was punish by gallows...
"Bounty" anchor and ... me® |
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Nearest
neighbors east of Pitcairn live on Easter Island -
more then 2000 km east. To the coast of Tahiti on the west is almost 2400
kilometers.
There is a luck in
the adversity of lonely Pitcairn: the island lies almost exactly on the line connecting
New Zealand with Panama.
So all ships
heading from New Zealand to the US east coast and Europe always are passing by. If there
is need to supply the island freighter is anchoring for hour or more in front of
Bounty Bay and islanders are coming with their longboat to get the load. Thanks to this
convenient location they can get the mail say every two months. If not - only chartered
boat should supply them and who will charter the boat to supply 50 people living thousands
miles from the other land? |
Even now, during the era of big passenger
cruise ships and round-the-world journeys tourists are rare on Pitcairn. In 1997, when I
visited Pitcairn they expected only 3 passenger ships. And they were not big liners
but small expedition boats carrying from 50 to 200 passengers. I arrived on proudly named
“World Discoverer”, which is crossing this area twice a year. |
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There is not
any harbor on Pitcairn. “World Discoverer” anchored in a safe distance from the
coast. We landed in small rubber motorboats called "zodiac".
It is very difficult operation - possible only when the waves are not high. We were lucky,
but sometimes expedition ship is coming in - and coming out because the sea is too rough.
In Bounty Bay there is small breakwater protecting landing place with capacity of
two longboats.
Zodiac
approaching landing place |
Sprayed with water
we disembark our zodiac welcomed by Debbie Baronian - teacher's wife. He handed out the
copies of “The Pitcairn Miscellany” - local periodical distributed worldwide by subscription. People from the island expect to get more subscribers which
will made Pitcairn more popular through the world and to earn some extra money for the
school needs..
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Landing |
| To get to Adamstown - the only settlement on the island we climbed
up the gravel road - some 80 m to the small plateau. Those, who are not strong enough
(remember - it is tropic and sun and humidity are very strong) were waiting for
fourwheeler - ATV - all terrain vehicle - the only mean of motor transportation.
Islanders have few of them. On the way there is a pole with the Pitcairn flag
and small tableau founded in the occasion of the 200-anniversary of sailors
from "Bounty"arrival. (It was just few years ago).
For the first time
in my life I am visiting country capital inhabited only by 50 citizens! First
building of the capital houses small cooperative shop. For the reason of our arrival in
front of the shop islanders put big table full of souvenirs: pandanus baskets, shark and
dolphins carved in miro wood and "Bounty" models. The official
currency unit used on Pitcairn is New Zealand Dollar, but smiling islanders accept also US
currency with no problem. |
ATV |
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Some 100 meters farther small square marks the center of
the capital city. Three buildings surround it: on the left side - church of Seventh Day
Adventists (all population of the island belongs to this church) in front:
library and post office and on the right - Public Hall which works as court if necessary.
Right in the front of the Public Hall big anchor excavated from the wreck of
"Bounty" is located. Of course it is no. 1 photo spot for the tourists. On
the square, under the stretched canvas we found next stalls with souvenirs: handpainted
bags and T-shirts - 15 USD each and fish bones jewelry. For the guests they prepare
there thermos with chilled water - just invaluable in today's heat - it is more than 30
Celsius degree in shadow. |
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on the island lives around 50 persons. A group of teenagers is temporary dwelling in New
Zealand learning in the secondary school. They will return after graduation... Will
they really return , for sure? Almost all people in the stalls are elderly. Millie
and Warren Christian are seniors among them. She is 89 years old, he is 82. -And thanks
God we are still in good health! -Are you from Poland? Warren cannot remember if there was
somebody from Poland on the island. Is this possible that I am the first Polish visitor on
Pitcairn?
On the inside walls
of "Public Hall" there are pictures and souvenirs from different ships visited
Pitcairn in the past. There are also portrait photos of the queen and her husband,
but they are made in London, not on Pitcairn - it looks that the queen never visited
this distant crown colony. At the entrance of the hall there is curious phone set
installed. When you turn around the crank the bells in selected houses on the island are
ringing. And the system still works - at the approach to XXI century! |
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Millie & Warren |
| Small houses
are hidden in the green of palm, papaya and orange trees. On their verandah they hang big
bunches of bananas - there is much more of them that they really need. I can hear also
distant motor unit producing energy for the whole island. It is on for few hour every day.
Some families have also own small independent units for their needs. What do they
eat? They have own planted fruits and vegetables, they have also some livestock...
In the surrounding waters there is plenty of fish.
Financial means for
communal needs they collect from the emissions of postal stamps, which are rare in the
world and from the production and distribution of own-made souvenirs. Who is ruling on
Pitcairn? Formally this small state is British Crown Colony and it is administrated by a
British High Commissioner from distant Wellington, New Zealand. Commissioner is appointing
three officials: policeman, postmaster and secretary. On the island every year they elect
12-person council. And once for 3 year - Island Magistrate. I think that almost
adult on the island is holding at least one important position! |
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Satellite telephone and short-wave radio are here only ways allowing to
contact with the rest of the world. If somebody become seriously ill pastor's wife provide
only assistance. She is graduated nurse and she can get radio consultation via radio with
doctor in New Zealand. There is no other form of the help for ill people - there is no
airport on the island to pick up somebody to the hospital. There is no heliport as well
because Pitcairn is out of the range of the biggest helicopters.
The road to the
school is winding in the green tunnel formed by giant banyan trees. Lovely building of the
school was established only few years ago. In the classroom which reminds me workshop
there is only few tables. No wonder - there is only 7 schoolchildren and at the moment
they do not expect more. |
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Schoolchildren of Pitcairn know the rest of the world from video
movies only. They take care of the memorabilia related to the island history: in the wing
of the school building they established small museum. It contains old tools, photographs
and documents. Volunteer teacher recruited in New Zealand are changing on the
island every two years. English is of course the official language, but locals,
especially older ones speak a kind of slang: the mixture of English, sailors jargon
and Polynesian of Tahiti.
Pitcairn school |
What a heat... Fortunately my hat and extra
wrap are protecting me from the strong sun. Sweat is falling down from my nose. Only a bit
lower then the school is the beginning of the path going steeply up - to the Christian's
Cave. Soon it starts to cross open slope with no shadow, but the view from the place is
breathtaking: the navy-blue ocean, rocky coast and our ship anchoring in the safe distance
from the reefs.
The cave itself is
not very spectacular - high and shallow looks more like grotto. But it was this cave that
Fletcher Christian stayed for hours, and sometimes days, to get away from all other
mutineers and to study the bible.
I think that he was
looking for the moral support because life on the island at that time was not idyllic.
Over the several years almost all the original settlers died or were killed in arguments
over the Tahitian women. Fletcher Christian is believed to have been killed by two
Tahitians. By 1800 only one mutineer, John Adams remained on the island. He became husband
to 11 Tahitian women and father to all kids...
South coast |
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John Adams undertook education of 23
children using as spelling-book Christian's bible. Now this famous bible from
"Bounty" as relic is displayed in the glass-topped box in front of the altar of
Adamstown church.
How long time
they remained hidden for the world? Nobody knew about them until 1814 when
two English frigates hunting for pirates accidental rediscovered island. Old Adams - the only
remained mutineer was pardoned and left on the island till his death in 1829 at the
age of 65.
Bible from "Bounty" |
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When Adams died in 1829 authorities tried twice to move
islanders to other place. For the first time - to Tahiti. They returned at their own
request few years later. Then British Commissioner transferred the entire community to
Norfolk Island, close to New Zealand where they were settled in the buildings of
former penal colony. After few years 43 of them returned again to Pitcairn.
Church inside |
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Cemetery on Pitcairn is small. Tropical plants overgrove it. It is
difficult to read the names on the old graves. On the new ones I was reading
frequently such names like Christian, Young, Adams... - well known from the
"Bounty" story. Nobody knows where the grave of Fletcher Christian is
located. The graves of John Adams - the patriarch of Pitcairn, his wife and daughter
are located on the other side of the road under picturesque palm trees... Christian's Cave
is well visible from this place...
John Adams'
grave
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The size of the island is 2 by 4
kilometers. Well fitted tourist can walk all around it in one day. It can take even less
but the heat is exhausting! Walking alone I climb clayey track up and up. Pitcairn
is divided by the E-shaped ridge with the highest summit of 347 meters. On the
highest points of the ridge I found small cottages. They remain open, with supply of water
and fuel... Why to lock them? Short-wave radio station is also located
in the separate building up on the ridge. There are few people on the island who act as
radio - amateurs calling every day other radio enthusiasts all over the world. No wonder -
radio is the only thread connecting them with other people... Friends of
Pitcairn established internet page dedicated to the island (http://www.lareau.org/pitc.html) , but nobody
from the island saw it - so far they just have no access to the "worldwide
web". May be that quick development of satellite communication will change that
soon... |
The shores of
Pitcairn are extremely picturesque. This magnificent views are not pictures
from our dreams about south seas - there is no one single sandy beach on Pitcairn. The
cliffs are everywhere. Their names are derived from historical events...
"Upside-Nunk-Fall" is the cliff from which Alfonso Christian fell to his death
while chasing pigs. "Where Minnie Off" is the rock where Minnie was swept out to
sea... |
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It
is me there - on the jag...
How do they call it? |
Pitcairn has his own flag and belongs to the
Commonwealth. Three other islands also belong to the Pitcairn state: Henderson, an
atoll, is located 168 kilometers east of Pitcairn and is currently uninhabited. The
residents of Pitcairn sail to Henderson from time to time to collect miro wood for their
carvings. Other two atolls: Ducie (186 miles west of Henderson) and Oeno (75 miles
northwest of Pitcairn) are small and low - inhabited only by sea birds... |
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When "Bounty" was leaving England
there were 400 pounds in gold in the safe onboard. Only small amount of this money captain
Bligh spent buying wine on Madera. What was happened to the rest of gold? Maybe it
is still buried on Pitcairn. If it is true Pitcairn can be also called Treasury
Island!
For how long great
hermits will remain on this small piece of land in the blue ocean?
With thanksgivings for the warm welcome on the Pitcairn Island...
Wojciech Dabrowski © |
